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Lava Bright Crush Camouflage 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 5 in. Pen Blank Item #: WXLB4034
Lava Bright Crush Camouflage 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 5 in. Pen Blank  Item #: WXLB4034
 
List Price: $3.45
Our Price: $3.45

Quantity in Stock:10

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Product Code: WXLB4034
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Specification

Description



Size:

3/4 x 3/4 x 5



Material Type:

Plastic



Pre-Drilled:

No



Package Count:

1



Group:

Lavabright Crush



Category:

Pen Blanks




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Customer Q&A: Lava Bright Crush Camouflage 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 5 in. Pen Blank




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PennStateInd.com Store asked: Why did you choose this?




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W K: Just wanted to try this material. Jan 2, 2014



M Y: military and hunting look Jul 13, 2013



L C: "Use them with the bolt action bullet pens." Jul 2, 2013



J A: looks great on the 30 cal gunmetal twist pen Feb 19, 2013



C U: Like the color. Feb 6, 2013



R N: Use for the bullet pens. Jan 24, 2013



H I: For the bolt action bullet pens Dec 29, 2012



D I: This blank looks amazing with the 30 cal bolt action gold. Have had several orders for it. Nov 7, 2012



T G: It looks good on the bolt action pen. Oct 23, 2012


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Questions about similar items



About: Lava Bright Classic 2 Cherry with Rose Swirl 5/8 in. x 5/8 in. x 5 in. Pen Blank




A shopper asked:Is there a difference in the way an acrylic blank is finished vs wood?Dec 1, 2012
Answer this � Send to friends Good question? Yes (1) No (0)



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C H: That would somewhat depend on the type of finish you would prefer on wood. Typically, yes there is a difference in acrylic versus wood finishes. Wood can be finished with friction polishes or shellac, even CA finishes.

Acrylic on the other hand is basically just sanded with increasingly finer grits of sand paper or micro mesh. Some turners use plastic polish, but that is essentially a heavy liquid with abrasive grit suspended in it. I've used micro mesh on my acrylic pens with fantastic results sanding from 150, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and ending on 12000 micromesh. The finished product is like glass and without the liquid polish flying all over on the lathe. Only takes a few minutes to run through all of the grades of abrasive as well. It sounds like a ridiculous process or "overkill" but you'll be amazed at the difference when you use the stuff.Dec 1, 2012
Reply to C H � Thank C HGood answer? Yes (7) No (0)







D O: Acrylic blanks are finished by wet sanding starting with 180 or 220 grit followed by successively finer grits to 800. Then wet sand with the Micro-Mesh regular series of 9 grits starting at 1500 and ending with 12000.
For the final polish I use Novus 2 Fine scratch remover. You can also use the acrylic pen buffing system with blue rouge. I highly recommend getting the DVD by Barry Gross, "Turning Acrylic Materials." It is very well done and an excellent resource of information on all aspects of turning acrylics.Dec 2, 2012
Reply to D O � Thank D OGood answer? Yes (6) No (0)







S H: Yes, the acrylic takes a bit more time to sand and I use water to sand it. It does not need a finish then vs the wood after sanding to the finest grit will need a finish on itDec 1, 2012
Reply to S H � Thank S HGood answer? Yes (1) No (0)







Russ B: After you have it to shape do a super light pass with a sharp carbide tool. This will remove tool marks. Try not to gouge it! I start with 320, 400, 600, 1200, and sometimes 2500 (I use a strip of brown paper grocery sack which is +/- 2500 grit). I do a pass while spinning, then do a hand sanding lengthwise. I wet sand with 320 through 1200. Then I hand rub Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound on the blank and turn on the lathe and rub/buff the blank. Applying it by hand first then spinning prevents splatter. I also use a microfiber towel to do this with. After two to three coats of rubbing compound I buff the blank. Then I switch to PlastX by Meguiars. (you can go to Turtle Wax Polishing Compound then PlastX if you want an in-between) I apply it by hand and rub/buff it while spinning at a medium speed. Certain blanks come out like mirrors, all blanks come out like glass. The acrylic blanks are of various quality and I find some come out better than others. I mass produce pens and use acrylic almost exclusively. I only turn a few types of wood as I am not a wood type of guy. Using my method takes about 30 minutes give or take. Treat acrylic finsihing like auto-body paint repair. Wood is a totally different subject. Also if you gouge acrylic fill it with CA and keep on turning. I don't have time to gingerly go through sanding up to 24,000,000 grit. Plus I hate sanding. Using pastes also give the acrylic more strength. The PlastX puts a tough coating on and it contains oils that the plastic needs so it doesn't craze or dry out.Feb 17, 2013
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S A: Well they both make pretty pens. Kids fight over the acrylic pens more than the wood ones.
The acrylics dull the tools faster but you treat them the same using the same turning techniques. Count on it taking about twice as long as a wood blank. The acrylics can chip if they are cold. If you keep the tools sharp and take your time when they are thin it works best. They also melt if they get hot so you sand the thin areas slower, giving them a chance to cool. Especially with 600 grit paper. (I only go this fine with acrylics)
For the finish I use stove top polish followed by car polish.
Another interesting effect is that the brass tube shines through some of the acrylics. This adds to brass hardware, but detracts from the silver ones. The tube can be painted white before going in the blank to counter this.
They are well worth a turn!Dec 3, 2012
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C A: Yes there is a difference in how fast the sandpaper bites and if you apply too much pressure the material will melt and the surface will appear smeared. Light to medium pressure and move the sandpaper or sanding pad rather quickly. I use the micro abrasion sanding pads. They work well and last quite a while if you rinse them out with water every so often. I tried automotive wet sanding papers, but they clog up and heat up and melt the blank. As for finish I use HUT. One pass with the brown and two passes with white. They come out like glass!Dec 2, 2012
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L E: I finish them differently. I sand to 600 with normal sandpaper and then use micro mesh through all the grades. I finish them off with One Step plastic polish and have got fine results every time. Go very light with the micro mesh as it will burn very quickly. Another thing you may want to do is get some acrylic paint at a craft store and paint the inside of the blank before gluing it to the tube. This keeps the brass tube from showing through. Let the paint dry for 24 hours and use epoxy as CA does not play well with this combination.Dec 2, 2012
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M I: Use the same tools, acrylic is harder and will dull your tools quicker, use sharp tools and go slow towards the ends of the pens when they are turned down smaller. I use courser wet sanding sponges to remove any scratches in the acrylic and then the wet very fine grit sanding pads to polish them and you wont need any other finish. They will look great, good luck!Dec 2, 2012
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G U: In short the answer is no. Acrylics are easy to finish but i tend to use finer grits for the final finish and buff with very mild abrasive compounds. Dilute some rubbing compound in a plastic bottle with water. Turn the lathe speed up and take your time......enjoyDec 1, 2012
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R O: After completing the turning I dry sand with 150, 240, 320 and 400 sanding strips then wet sand with a Micro Mesh system which consists of 9 abrasive sheets from 1200 to 12000. I then polish with a product called Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish.Dec 3, 2012
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W W: Acrylic like all plastics I have worked with must be polished thru a series of increasingly finer grit abrasive to get the mirror finish required. Wood must first be sanded to a fine finish but then you have to apply a finish to the wood.Dec 1, 2012
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R G: Big difference ! You will need to get a micro-meshpad kit (9 pads).You will spend 2 or 3 times longer finishing the acrylic blank,but is worth it ! This blank is not so brittle as someand really good looking !Dec 2, 2012
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J E: Big difference. No finish is applied to plastics. Plastics are buffed or polished to a high gloss. Look up plastic polishing on the internet or at the library.Dec 2, 2012
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R B: I first sand to 600 grit then use the three double sided pads and finish with the acrylic buffing wheels. hope this answers your question.Dec 2, 2012
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K S: The way I finish acrylic is with a polishing rubDec 1, 2012
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About: Desert Camouflage 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 5 in. Pen Blank




A shopper asked:What is the best way to finish this product?Dec 30, 2012
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R L: I sand the turned blank to 12000 grit using Penn States Plastic Finishing Kit and polish with One-Step finish. You can then wax the finish with any good finishing wax such as: EEE-Ultra Shine Paste Wax.Dec 31, 2012
Reply to R L � Thank R LGood answer? Yes (2) No (0)







L N: The trick to a good finish on plastics, for me, is using a plastic finishing sandpaper kit and carefully inspecting between increasingly finer grits of abrasives. If you still have imperfections, go back and work it some more until you are satisfied with each grit. Wipe away the residue and move to a finer grit. The kits let you sand up to 12,00 grit and by then you should have a really decent shine to your plastic. From there, I have used Novis brand 2 part cleaner and finisher with good results. Recently I've been using the One-Step plastic polish and really like the results.Dec 31, 2012
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J W: When I finish my camouflage pens, I wet sand them with the 5-piece sanding set. Then I wet sand them with the plastic finishing kit. When completely done with the sanding, I apply a coat of the one-step plastic polish. I allow the polish to air dry before buffing with a soft cloth, such as a towel. Even though it says it is one step, I apply two coats of the polish. I then set them aside to allow the polish to completely cure before handling.Dec 31, 2012
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T O: Great blanks for use with the Bolt Action Bullet Cartridge Pens! I try to get the smoothest finish with a 1/4" or 1/2" spindle gouge, then sand up to 600 with regular sanding. Now, I am trying the Micro-Mesh Regular cushioned abrasive pads (1,500-12,000) [comes as 9-pad set, reusable]. My finish has been the One-Step Plastic Polish, where I find that a soft paper towel does a great job of bringing up the luster.Dec 31, 2012
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M I: I sand 220, 320, 400, 500, wet sand 600 ( I think the water helps), then micro mesh up to 12000. At this point it is glossy with fine scratches.

Then I use Novus #2 to remove the fine scratches, and finish with Novus #1 polish.

Gives a nice glossy finish to the plastic with no scratches if you sanded properly through the grits.Dec 30, 2012
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P Q: After turning to the desired shape to as smooth as possible with sharp tools, proceed as follows: WET sand starting with 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200,
( then wet sanding sponge pads: 1500, 1800, 2000, etc. up to 12,000 ) , and finish with Hut's plastic polish (2 coats). This method has always produced excellent results.Dec 31, 2012
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E D: this camo design works very well with the bolt action pen......

you can get two pens out of the 5" blank. Which is good in that the Bolt Action pen kits are pretty pricey.

but who is counting?Dec 30, 2012
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M S: I use the plastic finishing pads that are sold by Penn State Ind. They are easy to use and produce a quality finish.Dec 31, 2012
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P H: One -Step Plastic Polish, after sanding down to 400, One-Step will remove any minor scratches and polish the item.Dec 30, 2012
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J B: I use Micro Mesh sheets to 12000 and then PlastX polish on all polyester resin blanks to get a GREAT shine.Feb 13, 2013
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G H: I polished it with the plastic finishing kit. It polishes very well and easy.

GeorgeDec 30, 2012
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M I: Just wet sand to a fine finish, and apply a couple coats of plastic polish.Dec 30, 2012
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C M: I used the Hut brand polish and it worked great. Dec 30, 2012
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About: Lava Bright Classic 2 Cherry with Rose Swirl 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 5 in. Pen Blank




austin k asked:when turning this blank what kind of sand paper should i use? is there special finish?Feb 12, 2014
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J O: I suggest sanding with 320 to 600 in stages. First sand with the lathe spinning but watch for streaking if you get the material too warm. Just slow the lathe down and apply light to moderate pressure.

Last sanding for each grit should be longitudinal (along the length of the piece with the lathe stopped. Do this around the entire circumference of the piece. My final fads is with 1500 grit although that is not always necessary. Final polish is with Penn States One Step polish. Just follow the directions on the bottle. This process will give you a "smooth as glass" finish you'll be proud to show off. Feb 12, 2014
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Jason E: I finish these types of blanks by first using 60 grit to do a final shaping to exactly how I want it. I then use 150, 250 then 400. I follow up with a wet 400, wet 1000 and finally a wet 1200. No finish is needed besides a quick polish. I use rubbing compound first and finally a liquid car wax. This gives it a beautiful shine.Feb 12, 2014
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N C: I used standard turning tools and finished with ultra fine sanding pads up to the final finish of 12000 grit. Wet sanding works the best with these sanding pads. I also found the brass tube should be white as the tube color shows through the blank.Feb 12, 2014
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Gordon L: I usually use the plastic finishing kit for pen turners
(PKFINKIT) or I use micro mesh sheets 1800 to3600 grit.

Sometimes I finish up with 20/20 plastic polish, I think one step polish would do the same.Feb 12, 2014
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